Sumalak is a beloved traditional dish made from sprouted wheat, prepared annually during Navruz, the Persian New Year. This thick, sweet, and nutritious paste is slow-cooked overnight, requiring patience and communal effort. Below you can learn about the history and cultural significance of sumalak, and how to make it.
What is Navruz? Navruz is an ancient festival celebrated across Central Asia, marking the arrival of spring and the renewal of nature. It is a time of joy, feasting, and communal traditions, with sumalak playing a central role in the festivities. To learn more about the history, customs, and celebrations of Navruz, visit our guide to Navruz.
A famous legend tells of a poor mother who boiled wheat, flour, and water with stones to calm her hungry children. When she woke up, she found the mixture had transformed into a sweet, nourishing dish – sumalak. The name is believed to mean ‘30 angels’, referring to the unseen helpers who bless the dish.
Another version of the legend speaks of villagers who prayed for food during a harsh winter. In their desperation, they cooked whatever grains they had left, and by morning, the pot was filled with a delicious, sustaining meal – signifying divine assistance and abundance.
Sumalak preparation is a cherished social event, often bringing together entire neighbourhoods. Women take turns stirring the pot, singing traditional songs, and telling stories while waiting for the dish to be ready. The process builds community spirit and strengthens cultural ties. It is believed that the longer the women spend cooking together, the more blessings the dish will bring in the coming year. The slow, methodical process is seen as a metaphor for patience and the importance of working together as a community.
For many, the moment of unveiling the sumalak is particularly special. As the lid is lifted, unique patterns form on the surface, and some believe these shapes carry symbolic meanings or messages for the year ahead. Another widespread tradition is to taste sumalak from seven different cauldrons to ensure good fortune and success in the coming year.
Sumalak is widely enjoyed in Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and parts of Afghanistan and Iran. While the core recipe remains the same, slight variations exist. In some regions, additional ingredients such as nuts or dried fruits, or extra spices like cinnamon and cardamon, are added for extra flavour. In Tajikistan, sumalak is sometimes prepared with slightly different wheat strains, resulting in subtle differences in texture and taste.
While sumalak is traditionally made in large communal gatherings, modern adaptations have emerged for those who want to try making it at home.
Sumalak is packed with vitamins and minerals preserved during the slow cooking process. Despite containing no added sugar, its natural sweetness comes from the sprouted wheat, making it a healthy energy source after the winter months.
Many communities host sumalak-making events during Navruz. Attending one is a great way to immerse yourself in the tradition, taste freshly made sumalak, and take part in the communal joy that surrounds this special dish. If you live in Uzbekistan or you’re visiting during March, you won’t have to look hard to spot large sumalak cauldrons popping up. Tashkent’s Navruz celebrations at Amir Timur Square and other public spaces often feature large-scale sumalak preparation, where locals and visitors can join in the festivities.
Some modern cooking schools and cultural centres even offer workshops where participants can learn how to prepare sumalak step by step, ensuring that this cherished tradition continues for future generations.
Making sumalak is simpler than you might think, but it does require patience and a few key ingredients. Sumalak is traditionally prepared in large quantities, but smaller versions can be made at home.
Ingredients (large batch, 80 litres):
Basic steps:
Sumalak is best shared warm with friends and family during Navruz!